Ryokan

[The Frankensteiner]

Hey everyone, some questions about Ryokans for you.

Has anyone here stayed at them? How much more expensive than hotels are they?
Do they generally have vacancies or should you make reservations?

When I go to Japan I want to do the nakasendo walk between the post towns of Magome and Tsumago. Just getting to on of the two towns takes a couple hours I believe, and then doing the nakasendo walk takes 2-3 as well. So instead of travelling all the way back to the city again to stay at a hotel I figure I might as well stay in a Ryokan when I finish the walk. Do you think I'd have to book ahead?

Also, can someone describe the experience to me please if you've stayed at one?

[Jason]

Here's a site for ya:

http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/index.htm

I've never been myself, but a friend of mine has stayed in a few. He said the most expensive one he stayed at was about US$80 a night, but all of them were really nice. I don't think you normally have to book in advance unless it's one of the major travel seasons, but it probably would be good idea to anyway.

[arancarlisle]

The term Ryokan is used very loosely within Japan, so it is a bit difficult to answer. I stayed at a place in Tokyo called Sakura Ryokan which was really just a business hotel with Japanese style rooms, and was moderately priced (5,000 Yen/person/night). In Kinosaki-Onsen I stayed at a place, Mikuniya Ryokan, that cost 15,000 Yen/person/night, that was much closer to the "true" Ryokan experience.

What you want to look for is a place that will be serving you two meals IN YOUR ROOM. You pay a very high price for that, but really, I would say it isn't a "Ryokan" unless that is what you get.

If you are travelling by yourself, that hike might be a good time to try the true Ryokan experience.

However, I think most people would agree that staying at an onsen town Ryokan is the best way to experience a Ryokan. This would only be fun if you were with other people, and it is expensive. But it is likely to be the highlight of your trip.

Anyways, the meals we had at our Ryokan was incrediblly delicious and incredibly HUGE. And an added bonus was that our Ryokan even took special care to make vegetarian meals for my girlfriend, which was very nice of them.

Also, in case you were wondering, almost every hotel has Japanese style rooms available. If that is all you are looking for -- to sleep on futons on a tatami mat, then that is an experience you can have almost everywhere for the same price as a normal hotel.

[The Frankensteiner]

Yeah I would love to stay at one like the Mikuniya Ryokan you mentioned. But that's another thing, I'm going to be in a group of probably 4-7 people. Since it's such a big group do you think it'd be hard to find a place with enough room for all of us in Magome or Tsumago?

I think you're right though that if I can pull it off it would be the hightlight of the trip. I've been dreaming of visiting those two towns and travelling on the nakasendo road for a long time.

[arancarlisle]

With a group like that I highly recommend getting advanced reservations. My impression is that the Kiso Valley walk is VERY popular, and since lodging is so limited, I think it can get fully booked very quickly.

As far as lodging, I would say that my biggest headache on my trip was that lodging was very hard to find on the weekends, and if I ever go again, I am going to make sure to make sure that I have lodging for any small towns and weekends in advance.

[The Frankensteiner]

Hmmm. So how do you go about doing that?
Travel agencies?

I'm really clueless when it comes to travel. The furthest I've gone is Ottawa on a bus trip.

[KeithH]

Here are a few more sites you can use. I've never used them personally, but I plan to.

Welcome Inn Reservation Center - the Welcome Inns are supposed to be lower cost and foriegner friendly.
Japanese Inn Group
Japan Ryokan Association - there are some really good maps here to help you select a Ryokan.

Most ryokan come with dinner and breakfast and are per person. It's a great deal when traveling alone, but it's not as cost effective if there are two of you. Some places offer lodging only (most of the Welcome Inn places) but it's not very common.

Also, you can contact the JNTO Here and request brochures for the Ryokan. They have a good one for the Welcome Inns.

[The Frankensteiner]

Thanks so much!

[patchmonkey]

If you go to Hakone, there's a "ryokan" right by the station called "Kappa Tengoku" (English, Kappa Heaven). They don't include the meals (you can pay extra to get them in the room) but they have a fairly pleasant (if somewhat antiqued) rotenburo (outdoor onsen) and the price cannot be beat - about 3300/yen per person (as long as there are at least two people).

You can check out hotels and ryokan all over Japan (as well as book them) at http://www.japanhotel.net

Kappa Tengoku page: http://japanhotel.net/data/hotel_inform ... rea=HAKONE

Minshuku, which are family run inns, are a little nicer (and homier) than Ryokan even - if you can find one, they are generally a little cheaper, with homemade food, and may also have attached onsen.

[lucasburns]

I love Ryokans. I have stayed in Hiroshima, Beppu, Kyoto and Shirahama in them and have to say that I think the value is not too bad. The average price that i paid was waround 12,000 yen, but keep in mind that it includes 2 meals, of which the dinner itelf would cost at least 4,000 (I don't about that cost in Japan, but if I were to have it back in Australia, I would be epecting anywhere between $40-60 for that type of dinner. It probably is cheaper in Japan, but I haven't really looked!)

In each case check in was very easy. There is usually plenty of staff on hand (!) and they even carry your bags to your room for you. The lady appointed to your room will pour you a cup of tea when you arrive, and will give you a run down of what there is in the ryokan (onsen times, front door closing times etc) and will ask what time you want dinner. Then she will jsut leave you to your own devices. At the time for dinner, she will return and proceed to set up an AMAZING dinner on your table, and then will leave you to enjoy it. You usually get a phone in the room (I have stayed at reasonably large ryokans) and you call down to let them know that you ahve finished. Then you can go for a bathm or a walk or something else. When you return, your room will have been transformed. From a tatami room with only a table and some seats, to a tatami room with futons already made and set out for you.

Breakfast is a little hard to take for some westerners. The sight of a dried fish, some warm tofu or an array of pickles etc may not be appealing to you, and many ryokan offer a 'western' breakfast. I don't know what this consists of, as I haven't had it, but I think you should try the Japanese breakfast at least once. This may or may not be served in your room. I have had it in my room once, and other times in a communal tatami room with all the other guests, or in the hotel restaurant. In the case of the comunal tatami room, we had our own table set up in a huge room ready for us. Because we were gaijin, I thihnk we were put in a prominent place so everyone could watch us eat. It was very amusing to have the line of ladies that worked in the ryokan, clad in their kimonos, kneeling on the floor nearby watching us eat every mouthful!

Check in times are usually late (4pm+) and check out is usually by 10am.

Hope this helps.

[Ryu ta]

Konichiwa!

I just returned form my latest trip to Japan. While we were staying primarily in Tokyo, we did have business in Suwa that required an overnight stay. I'm very gald it did.

We stayed at the Nunohan (www.nunohan.co.jp) and I have rarely been so pleased with a hotel / guest house / inn in all my traveling days. It was superb. I think it is a bit on the expensive side (we were guests of our Japanese partners, but if I read the website correctly the rates seem to be about 30,000+ per night for the level of rooms we had.

The food was amazing. The supper was one to truly remember. Breakfast was Western at the request of some of my American business companions who don't care for Japanese food like I do. (I always feel disappointed when I return to the states as the food is so good in Japan that the traditional American fare leaves me flat.)

If I get back to Suwa, and I intend to, by all means, I will surely return to Nunohan.

I hope this is helpful.